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B-52G Progress and detatch question

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  • B-52G Progress and detatch question

    Spray worked great for the big parts, but of course Im going to need the oz bottles of the grey for the real small parts and didnt bother to get while i was at the store..LOL!
    Anyway photos are blurry but can give a basic idea of my 1st project. There will be no rims for the wheels for this model. That is something I will have to work on with future models. Notice one of the grey wheels..too close to the spray...lol! WOnt make that mistake again. Will using the same cleaner for brushes work well enough to strip that wheel since I have to re due it?
    So how do you detatch parts? Im gentley twisting, ect..but I already slightly cracked one of my stabilizer wings. Also Im using a dull sandpaper and seems to work well. Is there special sand paper for models?
    Thanx, and by the way please let me know if im starting too many new threads, or should just keep previous ones for this. Im still learning this board's culture.
    Todd


  • #2
    This is your first model right? Looks good. Thanks for the pictures.

    Parts get detatched with snips. Then trimmed with a hobby knife or razor blade. Finally, sanded to remove any last bits of sprue. Never ever twist them off. If you don't have snips carefully use a hobby knife or razor blade.

    Get a fine sandpaper as well. Work from the course grit to the finer stuff. Wet sanding is best.

    Can you just paint over the part of the wheel that was accidentally sprayed? Just touch it up if you can.

    Don't wory about the threads. You haven't started an outrageous amount and the forum isn't so busy that it can't use a few more new ones.
    Last edited by Duncan; 28 Aug 07, 22:52.

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    • #3
      Yep. Agree with Duncan totally. I will add that, depending on the shape of the part and its robustness, sometimes I use a jeweller's saw to detach them. I will even go to the point of cutting the sprues up into several pieces to facilitate sawing away small parts...especially long and fragile parts that might break if I use my scalpel to remove them. I remove what's left of the 'gate' (the stub of plastic left on the part) with a scalpel in tiny bites...I never try to cut it off in one hit. as my Dad said, 'You can always take more off but you can't put it back on.'
      A good place for sandpaper is an auto finishing shop. I have many grades, all wet and dry, but I usually use files for big stuff and 1200 to 2000 grit for finer work. I also spent moderate dollars and bought myself a set of 'Micromesh Polishing Cloths' which are really just ultra fine sandpaper. The finest is 3600 I think and I use it wet. You can polish the frames off clear canopy parts with it. You can wrap the paper around files or strips of wood or anything really for uniform sanding. If you use it wet it won't clog up and can be used until it has holes in it.
      There are no 'rules' in this caper mate. Whatever works is good.
      The truth? You can't handle the truth! No truth handler you! I deride your truth handling abilities!
      Sideshow Bob.

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      • #4
        Actually there is too much buildup in the center of that particular wheele. I used too much white and didnt notice it until today after drying over night.
        Tes this is my very 1st model. Thanx for your response.

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        • #5
          Welcome and great job so far!

          What part of the greatest Commonwealth on Earth do you hail from anyway?
          http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...200pixwide.jpg

          Kampfgruppe - A Wargaming Clan Since 1998

          NorbertSnyderJr.com

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          • #6
            I guess an acto-knife would work well?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by usaalways View Post
              I guess an acto-knife would work well?
              A very common modelling tool...works fine.
              The truth? You can't handle the truth! No truth handler you! I deride your truth handling abilities!
              Sideshow Bob.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by usaalways View Post
                I guess an acto-knife would work well?
                I used that for years before I purchased a spure cutter. You don't need a bunch of fancy tools to build decent models. Surprisingly many of the tools you will use aren't model related at all. Using some careful work with the X-acto you can even forgo sandpaper.
                If you can't set a good example, be a glaring warning.

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                • #9
                  Looking good, you wouldn't know your a Rookie!
                  Life is what happens to you when your busy making other plans! Lennon - www.lufttiger.com

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