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OK decals and solvaset

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  • OK decals and solvaset

    I have read that solvaset melts the backing compound and melts the decal into the paint. Therefore if this is true, is it really necessary to gloss coat first then apply the decal, or can this gloss coat be skipped entirely?
    "At some point, we've all parked in the wrong garage."- Roger Sterling, Jr.

  • #2
    Yes Solvaset 'melts' the decal film.

    But picture putting a decal on a rough surface and then picture putting a decal on it and expecting it to dissolve without mishap. I've made that error in the past.

    Solvaset is a great substance, but it has it's limits. For one, it really DOES dissolve the decal film, and if you need to move the decal later, well you ain't.

    I prefer to use Solvaset ONLY on significant surface irregularities where you simply can't apply some gloss coat and make it better. Good example, those darned massive decals that invariably go over large things like bolts or surface indents. Gloss won't help you there.

    Gloss though is both simpler and easier for just plain basic superior grab. Plus it also seems to produce less air under the decal. I've seen decals messed up because air underneath made the colours look wrong.
    Life is change. Built models for decades.
    Not sure anyone here actually knows the real me.
    I didn't for a long time either.

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    • #3
      solvaset

      I have always used thined gloss clear painted on to flat paint areas to accept the decal useing a o1 spotter Flat paint serface close up is rough and decals need a flat smooth serface to adhear and help eliminate the silvering affect of the decale edges.eg. german cross on zimmermit or over bolts the decal will soften and and as the solution evaporats the decal softens and collapses to follow the fluid in the crack creases or what have you does not matter if you use gloss paint or not ,the edges of the decal will silver if you don't so as a rule I use it when applying decals . On shinny smooth serfaces solvaset is not required
      Last edited by majorchuck; 26 Feb 10, 08:00.
      "Damn the torpedoes; where are my condoms!?!"
      "The price of freedom, is always blood

      leo 1a2 can. rental 1977
      m1a1 1/64 2003 [thunder run]
      leo2a6m 'the stan'
      leo1a3-c2 leopard germ.
      leo2a6m barricuda camo afgan.
      leo2a4 can.

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      • #4
        *bump*-So now I am confused and I am going to use both glosscote and solvaset and see what happens. If I am making a humongous mistake, someone please stop me because I'm not quite at that point yet.
        "At some point, we've all parked in the wrong garage."- Roger Sterling, Jr.

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        • #5
          What precisely are you putting the decals onto, and how big are the decals?

          It matters.

          For a plane I'd say gloss coat then decal.

          For a rough surface small location like a tank you might prefer the Solvaset.

          Keep in mind, gloss coat is all about 'grabbing' the decal with a smooth surface.

          Solvaset is all about making the decal melt into features like panel lines on a wing.

          A glass coated surface on a aircraft wing, will NOT make the decal sit down IN to the recessed panels lines. That's what the Solvaset is for.

          Conditions may well require you gloss coat AND Solvaset for the situation.

          I applied a large decal of a patriotic slogan on the side of a T-34/85 turret that effectively covered the entire side of the turret right over several projecting protrusions like rivets.
          It took a while, but the Solvaset eventually melted the decal right onto over and around the complicated features.

          Just gloss coating that tank turret was not going to make that decal sit proper over those raised surfaces.

          Solvaset generally though, will not defeat a matt finish. You will get a hazy effect under the decal from trapped air, and in time the decal will dry out and come off.
          Life is change. Built models for decades.
          Not sure anyone here actually knows the real me.
          I didn't for a long time either.

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          • #6
            It's the Tamiya 1:25 scale T-34/85 with the huge slogan "For Stalin!" on both sides of the turret.

            What I'm getting is that it is not good to gloss then use the solvaset on top of the gloss before setting the decal. And do I use the solvaset on the tank where I will be placing the decal and then after it dries on top of the decal as well?
            "At some point, we've all parked in the wrong garage."- Roger Sterling, Jr.

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            • #7
              1/25th scale? Man that could be quite the decal

              Interesting considering my example was the same tank, but Tamiya's 1/35th scale vehicle. Might even be the same decal hehe.

              In this case, I am thinking, you might be ok to apply a thin gloss coat locally then apply the deal, then if there is surface texture worthy of note to apply solvaset on those specific locations.

              Keep in mind, you can (well I do at least) apply Solvaset on TOP of the decal. it's a solution that essentially malts the decal and makes it conform to the surface it sits on. Take great care too, as once melted, the decal is not going the be movable.

              If you have no experience with Solvaset, I strongly advise expending a decal from the junk category and apply it to something expendable to see just how this process happens.

              The decal will appear to wrinkle in most cases and then dry and conform to the surface it is on. You can't 'touch' it when it is curing.
              Life is change. Built models for decades.
              Not sure anyone here actually knows the real me.
              I didn't for a long time either.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Dane_Bramage View Post
                It's the Tamiya 1:25 scale T-34/85 with the huge slogan "For Stalin!" on both sides of the turret.

                What I'm getting is that it is not good to gloss then use the solvaset on top of the gloss before setting the decal. And do I use the solvaset on the tank where I will be placing the decal and then after it dries on top of the decal as well?
                If it's that big, cut out the decal and stencil it.
                If you can't set a good example, be a glaring warning.

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                • #9
                  Most of my "decal-set" experience is on N-scale locomotives and rolling stock.My railroad had a fictional name,the Erie Central.My locos and rolling stock were all painted using Floquil paint.The decals were placed directly on the paint,no gloss or dullcote.The lettering on those tiny locos was (I think) 3/16 New Times Roman font Micro-Scale decals.I'm very proud of the results.Of course each letter had to be placed individually.Decal set made it possible,the lettering looked painted on,conforming to the rivets and access doors.
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                  • #10
                    The decal softeners really melt the decal film. I only use it on very irregular surfaces with no gloss coat before hand. I have found that the decal may look quite bad for a few hours as it dries. I dab it dry with a paper towel very carefully. A day later it has settled in and conformed nicely. I use a setting solution but not a softener on flat surfaces. As was said earlier. Don't think you're going to move it later. The thing is melted. If it is still soft it'll disintegrate. If it's dry it's there for good.

                    I avoid pre-finishing with gloss. I use Future to dip canopies. But I find that the nice dull finish you get with Tamiya paints and perhaps a dull finish is never quite the same with Future lying under it. It's usefull for washes and decals if you fear they will shine. But I find the finish is never completely dull afterwards. Not so important with aircraft but I find it annoying on armour.
                    Last edited by Duncan; 13 Apr 10, 14:54.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks all! Esp. Duncan, I love the flat finish I get from the Tam paints. So no gloss. since the tank turret is somewhat textured, I will use the solvaset for the nooks and crannies.
                      "At some point, we've all parked in the wrong garage."- Roger Sterling, Jr.

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                      • #12
                        big decals

                        Originally posted by Dane_Bramage View Post
                        Thanks all! Esp. Duncan, I love the flat finish I get from the Tam paints. So no gloss. since the tank turret is somewhat textured, I will use the solvaset for the nooks and crannies.
                        first spray clear gloss or thined and brushed on on the turret side then let dry ,two coats thined may be needed let dry aplay decal use damp cloth to press out traped air and then use solvaset after aplication let dry do not touch until fully dry
                        "Damn the torpedoes; where are my condoms!?!"
                        "The price of freedom, is always blood

                        leo 1a2 can. rental 1977
                        m1a1 1/64 2003 [thunder run]
                        leo2a6m 'the stan'
                        leo1a3-c2 leopard germ.
                        leo2a6m barricuda camo afgan.
                        leo2a4 can.

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                        • #13
                          I agree with Freightshaker .... cut it out and stencil it... or free-hand paint it.
                          http://www.ebay.com/usr/froglevelzcool

                          “The test of success is not what you do when you are on top. Success is how high you bounce when you hit bottom." - George S. Patton

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                          • #14
                            OK I'm channeling King Solomon here - I found a slogan that I like better than the ones on the Decal so I am going to freehand it with a brush. The Red Star next to the driver's hatch I will be using the decal with the solvaset and no gloss...
                            "At some point, we've all parked in the wrong garage."- Roger Sterling, Jr.

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